Monday, January 12, 2009

Not to be all surf snotty, but i hit up huntington this morning before class, and 1) it was as flat as a lake. 2) we got there and it was still dark, moon super bright reflecting on the water, with one lone surfer out there. Never surfed in the dark before. wasnt excited for it. 3) my wet suit has a huge rip on the left side rib cage area. this=cold.

All that aside, we figured we woke up and drove there, so we might as well get in. and with small inconsistent sets of 1-3 footers, i was getting bored. Til i realized how amazing the sunrise was.
I looked left and saw about 8 silhouettes of surfers in the water, with the pier in the background. the sky was orange and pinkish.
It warmed up.
I saw a little group...pod? dolphins. and thats always kindof cool to see.
Not one cloud in the sky.
It really was beautiful and i was at peace. catching like one or two waves every 10-15 minutes. haha.
Moral of the story, i figured out that just being out there...makes me happy.
and starts my day out better. I was in a great mood today.

i need to buy a wetsuit.
i need moneyyyy.
yep. Thats all.

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